2 to 11 July – Geicke Gorge, Horizontal Falls, Broome & Dampier Peninsular

2 July – an early morning cruise on the latest gorge – Geikie (soon to be renamed Darngku). This one was much wider with most cliff faces on one side. The rocks showed the high water mark clearly which was quite amazing at more than 5 metres above the current water levels. In big floods like 2011 it’s even higher? Must be truly stunning with many islands forming in a sea of flood waters.

After the cruise we took three strenuous walks (quite flat but through deep soft sand). More speccie views of the gorge, crocs, birds & trees. Another wonderful place.

Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge

3 July – less than a week after my first helicopter ride, today I had my first sea plane ride. What a day. First we took the seaplane from Derby airport to Talbot Bay where we landed in the water after banking steeply & flying low between two cliffs. We hopped off at a pontoon in the middle of the bay with 3 houseboats attached. We were shown to our quarters then enjoyed a drink before jumping into the shark feeding cage where we fed about 10 lemon sharks. There were also a few large bat fish, a massive groper & many smaller fish.

Then on to the speed boat powered by three 300hp outboards for a leisurely cruise up Cyclone Creek (so named as it is a good safe anchorage in a storm due to the surrounding cliffs & deep water). We then headed to Horizontal Falls – 2 narrow gaps through the cliffs where the water from the bays flows furiously with the massive 10 metre tides up here. The boat powered up & we sped through the narrow gaps & swirling water which looked like water going down a plug hole with swirling whirlpools all around. A real thrill seeker ride which we repeated several times.

Back to the houseboats for crispy skin barra & salad followed by cheesecake & washed down with wine as the sun set over the bay. Lots of excited conversation before a bush poet performed an impromptu poem – quite special & a great way to celebrate our anniversary!

Horizontal Falls flight

Horizontal Falls

4 July – very early start for another run at the falls which were running much higher this morning – the narrowest gap was deemed too dangerous so we couldn’t go through But the swirling water was dropping 1.5 metres as it surged through the gap – quite spectacular. We then boarded the seaplane & flew low along the coast & past numerous islands surrounded by the turquoise sea, mangroves, mud flats & river inlets. An amazing flight back to Derby. Jumped in the car & headed to Broome – had a quick spin around town after setting up camp.

Horizontal Falls

Horizontal Falls

5 July – did the Broome Sat morning market & shops then headed to the very neat & tidy Japanese cemetery (many Japanese came here to work in the pearling industry), next to this was the Chinese cemetery with some impressive headstones under pergolas. We then headed to Cable Beach for a look & a swim in the turquoise water – nice beach. Next stop, Gantheaume Point (fascinating & colourful rocks), and then took the sandy road to Reddell Beach with white sand, rocky sections & red cliffs. It was so pleasant we took a stroll along the beach & were lucky enough to see 2 whales just 500 metres off shore followed by a beautiful sunset. Finished a great day with barra & threadfin salmon at the Wharf & a stroll on the jetty.

Redell Beach

Boab

At Ganthaume Point

6 July – a nice quiet day. Strolled through the interesting Broome museum – lots of info about the pearling industry & the WW2 Japanese attacks on Broome, Derby, Katherine & Darwin ( there were multiple attacks & many planes & ships lost & quite a few lives – mainly civilians – I hadn’t realised the extent of the damage). Then sampled the brews at the local brewery – not bad but didn’t buy any. After a quiet arvo watching the tide come in opposite the tent we headed to Cable Beach to watch the famous sunset (along with 1,000’s of others & 100’s of 4WD’s & dozens of camels on the sand) – quite specie. Finished off with mussels & duck for dinner.

Cable Beach

7 July – visited the Sisters of St John of God exhibition – the original sisters came to Beagle Bay (north of Broome) from Ireland in 1907 to work with the aboriginals – what a dramatic change of scene for them? They must have had a very difficult time but most stayed many years caring for & teaching the locals. We then stocked the larder & headed for Cape Leveque on the Dampier (Bardi) Peninsular (over 100 kms of red, sandy, corrugated roads). Visited the Beagle Bay church which is a beautiful white-washed building decorated inside with mother of pearl. We will camp 4 nights at Middle Lagoon – “Nature’s Hideaway” (many kms from anywhere?). A beautiful camp site among the trees & within 100 metres of the beach – a fantastic spot.

Beagle Bay church

Our tent site Middle Lagoon

Beach opposite our tent

8 July – an early morning stroll along the beach ending in a bit of a rock scramble before a beautiful swim. We were assured there were no crocs about?? We then drove about 6kms to Whale Song a lovely little café & campsite on the cliff tops overlooking Pender Bay – beautiful white sand surrounded by red cliffs – the water also had a red tinge. Back to camp for steaks in front of a great little camp fire.

Whale Song road

9 July – drove to Lombadina community, a small indigenous community on the west side of the Dampier Peninsular. They do provide cabins for tourists but no camping. Took a stroll out to the beautiful pristine white sand beach & turquoise water where Anne inevitably had a swim.

Next stop the Ardyaloon hatchery at One Arm Point right near the tip of the peninsular. The hatchery is right beside the entrance to King Sound & as the tide was going out the water literally raced by like a raging torrent. The hatchery specialises in Trochus shells but also has display tanks with many of the local reef inhabitants – giant clam shells, barramundi, clown fish, turtles, coral, anemones etc – all passionately shown by the guide. The Trochus shells are carved & polished into beautiful ornaments & jewellery.

Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm was our next stop – the only fully Australian owned & run pearl farm. Had a tour of the farm & learned all about pearls & the industry helps you understand why they are so expensive (but no pearls for Anne - I swear she didn’t want one). We did sample some pearl meat at the restaurant – expensive & interesting but not special.

A quick run into Kooljaman & Cape Leveque to see the sunset (again) at the white sandy beach before heading home along the corrugations in the dark – only saw 2 other cars on the main road & none on the 33 kms Middle Lagoon road.

10 July – a quiet day in camp to catch up on domestic chores plus a little snorkelling on the reef out front – not the barrier reef but worth a look.

11 July – Depart Middle Lagoon & head for Broome to buy a new tent (the poor old one had a few rips & busted zips). Gave the car a much needed wash.