17 June - 24 June – Gibb River Road

17 June - Tyre fixed, re-fueled again, Gibb River Road take 2. The views of the Cockburn Range are stunning all along. Successfully negotiated the Pentecost River Crossing & headed to Home Valley Station – just 9kms of corrugations past the crossing. A lovely setting with views of the Cockburn Range. Had a short walk before dinner. Listened to the guitarist singer at the Dusty Bar & Grill – though his audience was small he was very good.

The weather has been amazing – cool nights & beautiful days of 25 to 28 degrees & no rain.

Pentecost River crossing

 18 June – kicked off the day with a walk to Bindoola Gorge – very rocky terrain but a beautiful waterhole in the gorge. Plenty of wild flowers & birds.

Then another 120 kms of Gibb River Road – the corrugations are endless, poor car & also crossed more fords including Durack River. Next to Ellenbrae Station for the ‘best scones, jam & cream in the Kimberley’ (they were very good). Set up camp in a real bush setting with hot water from a “donkey“ system (ie chuck a few logs in the furnace, light it up, wait 5 minutes – then beautiful hot water for your shower). Had a pre-dinner walk to Sandy Beach Gorge – had the place to ourselves so had a skinny dip – loverly?

The countryside here is certainly harsh – rocks, sand, struggling plants – but then some beautiful waterholes, escarpments & rivers. A real land of contrasts. I am in awe of the early explorers & settlers – a very hardy lot. Mind you, the current residents need a bit of resilience too.

Durack River crossing

Some 'light' Gibb River Road dust

Rocky landscape at Ellenbrae

19 June – an early morning stroll to the nearby swimming hole but too early for a swim. Then back to the endless corrugations – about 80 kms without a let up. Finally they eased up & we got some smoother kms under our belt. Just when everything seemed to be going well the red light started flashing on the dash. Our radiator was boiling - & this on the good stretch of road??? No mobile reception but some kind passing travellers offered assistance. We managed to get a ride to Mt Barnett Roadhouse where we could make some calls to arrange assistance (nearest garage Derby 300kms).

A truck was returning from Drysdale River Homestead but could not be contacted by radio so we had to hitch a ride back to the car then flag him down in the dark & tell him the boss had asked him to pick us up. He then drove to the Roadhouse to unload his existing cargo then returned to get us. A wonderful night at the Mt Barnett Hilton (maybe 1 Star).

Sick Suby

20 June – Bacon & egg sango & coffee for breaky from the Roadhouse then into the truck for over 4 hours of bumpy driving to Derby for repairs. The scenery is always harsh but continues to change with different coloured soils, different vegetation & changing rock formations – really fascinating (even from a truck seat). The driver, Pat, has had an interesting life – as a stockman mustering cattle, to helicopter pilot & now a truck driver. He had lots of info about the areas we were travelling through.

Everyone has been very friendly & helpful but there was heaps of mucking around with RACV to organise a hire vehicle (Toyota Hilux twin cab ute) & accom. The radiator is stuffed (a rock through the back of it??) so a new one ordered from Perth which will not get here until Wednesday.

The day ended well with dinner at our friend Marita’s with her partner Ian, his brother Clive & friend Tom (they are all heading off in a few days for a back country hike – sounds hard but fun). Back to the tent for a well needed sleep.

21 June – first needed to work out how to pack all our stuff in the new car – limited space in back seat & not wanting to put too much in the back of the ute due to dust & limited ties to keep it down. Decided to return to Mt Barnett & head to the camp ground at Manning Gorge. The termites around here employed a different architect – they are all like big blobs with growths – quite strange. Manning Gorge camp site is a lovely spot & close to the waterhole where we had a refreshing swim. Then back to the tent where our friendly neighbour had fired up his bloody generator (they are allowed up to 8pm). Talk about destroy the atmosphere!!

Termite mounds

22 June – up early & headed off on a 3 hour return walk to Manning Gorge waterfall. Started with a small tinny powered by a rope pulled by hand to cross the river. The walk included a few hills & rock climbs but was well worth it. The falls & waterhole were stunning & the water beautiful for swimming. On the return trip we had another dip at the river before heading for the next gorge. Checked petrol price at Mt Barnett which was the highest yet at $2.50/litre so waited for the ‘cheaper’ fuel at Imintji ($2.36). Next stop Galvans Gorge - smaller but still stunning with a 2 tiered waterfall & a boab at the top. Another beautiful swim before moving on to Silent Grove for the night. So many gorges but all different & great.

Manning Gorge

Rob pulling punt

Galvans Gorge

23 June – a 10km gravel road followed by a half hour rock climb took us to Bells Gorge – another beauty with a waterfall cascading over multiple levels to a crystal clear swimming hole. The water was magnificent & many water monitors watched us from the surrounding rocks. We stayed in the pools for ages. The only downside was the masses of humans about also enjoying the environment.

Back to the corrugations & a visit to Tunnel Creek, an aptly named water course which literally runs beneath the mountain & we were able to walk through the tunnel from one side of the mountain to the other with the aid of a torch. Frogs, fish, bats & freshies share the tunnel & we had to climb over a pile of rocks then wade through water up to knee deep. Really interesting rock formations & stalactities. Witnessed another beautiful sunset on the way back to our camp site at Windjana Gorge & enjoyed an after dinner wine with a couple from Bermagui we met along the way.

Bells Gorge

Tunnel Creek

24 June – a 3 hour walk along the spectacular Windjana Gorge. Sheer walls of black, white, orange & yellow towering above the meandering waterholes. Yet another stunning gorge but no swimming this time due to large numbers of freshies – some very large. Then back to Derby to pick up our car & re-group for the next stage of the adventure. Two nights with our friend Marita, fish (barra) & chips on the jetty.

Windjana Gorge